NYFW Looks that Reflect Our Districts
Designers inspired by Panem’s industries
by Lynn Yaeger
Altuzarra for District 8: Textiles
This show was very well received. It is ethnic, without being too costume-y with the ponchos and the colors are all very wearable. The designer had fun playing with the textiles—leathers, metallics—and even fringed some of the linen and cotton skirts. A few fabrics were embroidered or patchworked with silk and cotton. I would be most at home in District 8 with all those textiles.
Ralph Lauren for District 3: Electronics and Technology
The really bright neons like lime green and orange at the end of the show felt electric. Ralph has his tropes that he returns to like the flapper girl or the girl in a Fair Isle sweater, but he loves these bright, out there colors too. It’s very loud and in your face. When the chartreuse dress first came down the runway, we all gasped. So bold. You need to be very confident to put on a bright yellow leather suit. Neons are not easy colors to wear. I am very pale and prefer black.
Thom Browne for District 1: Luxury Items
People made references to Elizabethan women, but what I saw were zombie prostitutes with their lipstick smeared and their purses open. There were headless female mannequins on meat hooks dangling from the ceiling too. But the artistry of the garments was incredible. You had latex and tapestries and all sorts of techniques. It was very unwearable and extreme, like District 1.
Suno for District 10: Livestock
The collection felt like early Marni and we saw zebras on dresses, a top and a skirt. Who’s to say that there aren’t aqua-colored zebras being bred in District 10? I like to think that is happening. I also liked that there are lots of different shapes and sizes in this collection, so it works for all types of girls.
Rodarte for District 6: Transportation
It was a very controversial show, but these girls—Kate and Laura Mulleavy—have always existed outside the conventional fashion system. Some of the looks felt very futuristic Hells Angel biker girl, the type of clothes you could wear on a motorcycle. (The designers simply said that “Los Angeles” was their inspiration.) There was a lot of black leather and animal prints.